Liveaboard Diving in Bali, Komodo, Sulawesi Indonesia
Bunaken-Manado Tua Park

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sangihe

Bunaken-Manado Tua National Marine Park

In 1989 Indonesia's first marine park was established in Manado Bay. Today, the North Sulawesi Watersports Association helps to educate the local population and foreign tourists on how best to enjoy and preserve this remarkable area.

Highlight

The coelacanth (SEE-la-canth), a fish once believed to have been the ancestor of all birds, mammals and reptiles, was thought to have become extinct 65 million years ago with the last of the dinosaurs. In 1938, one was discovered near South Africa. Additional coelacanth discoveries in the nearby Comoro Islands led researchers to call it a living fossil.

Until 1997 the only known population of this extraordinary fish was in the Comoro Islands. A scientist in Manado stumbled on a coelacanth for sale in a local fish market. Recognizing it immediately, he brought it to the attention of the world. Subsequent submersible dives at Bunaken-Manado Tua National Marine Park led to additional sightings. The Manado coelacanth is now recognized as a new species, Latimeria menadoensis .

Manado Tua, Sulawesi, Indonesia
Anemone Fish
Schooling Barracuda
©Denise Nielsen Tackett & Larry Tackett

Like its Comorian relatives, the Manado coelacanth is almost two meters long and weighs up to 70 kg (~150lbs). Its thick, heavily scaled body has lobed fins resembling "arms" and a tri-lobed tail. Females give birth to as many as 26 live "pups" at a time.

The discovery of the Manado coelacanth is a good sign. Living in very deep caves (>200m or 650ft) near volcanic islands has enabled them to successfully elude man. Perhaps there are other areas of the world where this elusive creature has escaped detection.

The Park

The park covers over 75,000 hectares in the Sulawesi Sea. The four coral islands, Bunaken, Siladen, Montehage and Nain, are flat. The fifth, Manado Tua, is an extinct volcano with an imposing crater that towers over the bay. Coral walls surround the islands, plunging over 1300m (4200ft) in depth. Excellent fish life and coral cover make this the world's premier wall diving destination.

The drift diving is easy - jump in and go with the current. Dive boats pick up divers wherever they surface. Most diving is in light currents when the filter-feeders open up and the reefs are at their best. Currents bring in schooling fishes and bigger animals like eagle rays, barracuda, Napoleon wrasses and sharks.

The water temperature is warm, about 27ºC (84ºF). The best time to dive is March to November. The rainy season is December to mid-March. July and August are sunny and windy. Visibility is excellent at 15-30m or more.

Best Feature

The park's best feature is its steep walls and coral gardens. Snorkelers, too, can enjoy the shallow reefs filled with clouds of colorful fishes. Schooling pyramid butterflyfish are common along the reef crest. Deeper walls are filled with black corals, sea fans, and fantastic sponges. Nudibranchs are plentiful.

Dive Sites

Most diving takes place near Bunaken and Manado Tua, because of their many excellent sites. The following is representative of the diving in the area.

Lekuan Walls (I, II, III)

This long wall on Bunaken is divided into three sites: Lekuan I, II and III. Together they represent the park's best. Steep walls are marked with deep crevices, sea fans and giant sponges. The shallows are filled with fishes. The wall, often protected from stronger currents, is frequented by bumphead parrotfish, turtles, and Napoleon wrasses.

Mandolin

Mandolin has a knockout reef crest and a wall that attracts thousands of fishes like schooling fusiliers, surgeonfish, unicornfish, and bannerfish. They are acclimated to divers and are easily approachable.

Bunaken Timor

There are strong currents and lots of fishes on this long wall. The shallow reef isn't as spectacular as some but there are turtles, sharks, eagle rays, and other big fishes in the blue. Overhangs and small caves mark the wall.

Tanjung Kopi

Tanjung Kopi is a nice wall with a small school of barracuda and lots of sweetlips. Visibility in the shallows is not terrific but the numbers of fishes make up for it. Nudibranches and fire gobies are easy to spot here.

Siladen Island

Siladen has a beautiful wall of soft corals that bloom when the current is running. The shallows are nice with lots of fishes and schooling snappers.

Muka Gereja

Muka Gereja is a pretty site with thousands of fishes in the shallows and deeper canyons that lead to the wall.

Barracuda Point

Barracuda Point, on northwest Montehage, is one of the furthest sites. A school of giant barracuda are regulars along with jacks and tuna.

Manado Wreck

This 60m (200ft) long German merchant ship sank near Molas Beach in 1942. It sits upright with the bow at 23m (78ft). The ship is split near amidships back to the stern, exposing the wheelhouse and cargo holds. Dives finish up on a nearby shallow reef. Expect 10-15m (30-50ft) visibility.

By Denise Nielsen Tackett & Larry Tackett

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